It’s a Small World

The morning was foggy and cold and we were a little worried Petra would be half hidden in the clouds. We needn’t have worried, cause the clouds lifted as we reached the gate, and after awhile the sun even peeked out. This caused a rousing cheer among 400 or so of the other folks waiting to enter the park. Our group made their way rapidly to a coffee shop and fortified themselves with espresso’s and hot chocolate while Heath sorted out the logistics and ticket buying.

While Petra is truly gorgeous, one of the biggest pulls for me are the funny bedouins that live and work in the park. They are a fearless group of renegades who wear headscarves and heavy coats, ride horses at top speed and have the wickedest sense of humor in the world. They will also happily rip you off with zero qualms, get horribly insulted if you suggest they may be ripping you off, hauling you to their uncle and father to prove that they really are honest. I know this, cause it happened to me. And it took a while to find dad. I was properly humbled and henceforth agreed with everything the guy said. Their kids don’t go to school much, so these tiny, adorable kids work right along with their parents, selling trinkets, herding donkeys and camels, and throwing rocks at naughty dogs.

Their big business is selling donkey and camel rides. They wait in groups at strategic spots, like at the base of the 900 stone steps that lead up to the Monastery, and try to convince tourists that they would love a ride up. Who in their right mind would think riding a donkey up 900 steps would be comfortable, I don’t know, but they seem to charm a few people on. After putting a couple ladies on donkeys, the herder led them past me and with roguish grin said “4X4”! Of course I nearly tipped over, which is exactly what he wanted. If they don’t have much business, they take a whirl down the path on their steeds, endangering everyone in their way. Its a very talented group of people that can nearly run you down and leave you laughing and feeling a shot of Joy. Only Bedouins, shouting out some nonsense about a donkey being a Lamborghini, swiftly flattering you by gasping over your beauty, or riding a camel with a ridiculously large flower perched on its nose. The donkeys are also very vocal, and I’m convinced they choose strategic spots to make their awful braying noises, right where it bounces and carries best off the canyon walls.

The main part of Petra is seriously crowded, but we took a quieter hiking trail that led to The High Place of Sacrifice. It was a beautiful climb, all the rocks had been freshly washed by the rain, exposing the vivid streaks of red, black, purple and mustard. Up at the top you have views for miles, and can still see the stone carved altar where the heathens would do their sacrificing.

We spent all day soaking up the beauty, and then headed off for Dana Reserve where we had a tent camp booked for supper and night. We got there just as the sun was setting in a most astonishing display of color. The camp is owned by Saif and is run by him and his brothers. They are a hilarious Muslim family, and we spent all evening in the communal tent, sitting in front of the heater and listening to wild tales by Saif. He has black hair with loose curls, twinkling brown eyes and a face splitting smile. He’s 34 and unmarried, and has lots of explanations as to why single life is much jollier than married. I could have spent hours more listening to his stories, watching his animated face, and soaking up the Jordan culture. They served us bottomless sweet hot tea (“drink more, drink more, each tent has its own toilet”), tea biscuits, and an enormous supper that was epic.

The little propane heaters in our tents got them cozy and warm, and we snuggled under our blankets feeling happy. The night was dark and quiet and the stars were brilliant. I was also a little sad, because although Jordan is amazing, its also a bit of a rigamarole to visit, so I couldn’t vow a vow to come back.

And who do you think was at Petra with us? Oprah Winfrey herself. I nearly bumped her but totally didn’t recognize her. How annoying.