It’s a Small World

It’s evening on Nisyros. We just watched the sun sink in a glorious display into the ocean, and now are quick walking around some ancient city ruins. The old dark walls are silhouetted against the colorful sky and the first star has come out. Goat bells are tinkling among the olive trees and somewhere a chicken is being seriously vocal. Of all the places I’ve been, it is the Mediterranean that fills my soul. The barrenness of the hills in dry season, the springs and olive groves, the brilliant sunshine that warms the rocks and the terraced hillsides. Loaded citrus trees and goats and the cheerful flowers that pop up in the least expected places. Greece, Israel, Palestine, just beautiful.

It was an early morning start, with anchor up at 5:14am. Incidentally it was also time change in Greece, so our night was longer than it seemed. Apparently the sunrise was spectacular and a porpoise entertained the crew with a small show. Of course I was sleeping, so that was a rip off. Rob made baked oatmeal for breakfast that we ate with cream, Greek yogurt and local honey. It tasted like heaven. We docked at Nisyros right at lunch after a very easy journey. From now on we’ll be out of the big water and protected from the large waves by a group of islands. As much as that was a pain, I’m sorta sad. From now on our biggest challenge will be finding enough wind to sail.

Every new island we get to is our new favorite. I don’t even know how that works. Nisyros is epic. It may be because we rented little 125cc scooters and explored with great abandon. The island is a big volcano, so it has a huge “stinking, hissing pit” in the middle. Most of the crater is terraced and olive trees and goats dot the hills. The pit itself is low and yellow and has puffing fumaroles that stink like crazy. Weird bright green growths dot the crater bottom, and it’s all together quite yuck. Someone had thrown an egg into one of the hissing holes, but it didn’t look like it had really cooked.

Leaving the barren pit, we went continued up and around the mountain to a tiny town, right on the edge of the crater that had a quaint little tea house that sold Volcano Cakes with ice cream. Ooey Gooey chocolate cake with a liquid center that poured across your plate. So good! Scooters are the perfect way to explore an island. You’re out in nature but can still get places fast. Nearly the whole island is covered in ancient terraces and we didn’t wonder why. It’s so steep you really couldn’t walk without em. Built into the terraces were rock huts, lots with cisterns, to keep the shepherd’s supplies. Goats were bouncing everywhere. I saw two having a big fight right on the edge of a terrace. Dirt would rain down, but neither one went over, worse luck. A natural sauna in the cliff was rather amazing. A little rock building was over it, with stone seats inside. Also a really sick cat, but it left when we arrived thank goodness. It was disgusting. Anyway, hot, wet air puffed out of vent holes in the walls and floor and the walls glistened with beads of moisture. Very unusual! It would feel super good after a cold day on the hills with the goats. Apparently quite a few of the houses there have such rooms in their basements. They use the hot air to heat their houses.

We watched sunset from the mountainside and once again felt bewitched by the Mediterranean beauty. I am aware that prairie sunsets are gorgeous, but I still think nothing can beat Mediterranean ones. Maybe it’s because the air is so dry here, but they are so clear and colorful. Put that against the blue sea and you have a picture to hold in your soul till next time. The sky stayed light enough for us to quick check out the ruins of an ancient city. You could walk on the old walls and the gateway was very well preserved. The rock was basalt, so the large stones were dark. It looked pretty awesome!

Supper was at a little seaside joint that served things like gyro and kebabs. We could see the lights of some divers under the water as they did whatever divers do. That seems horrible freaky, to dive at night. Eventually they surfaced like sea demons and walked off into the night. The place that rented out the scooters had showers as well, so we luxuriated under the hot flow, knowing we didn’t have to conserve water or tank space. Zach P got into conversation with the guys moored next to us, and they had come from Croatia. Apparently they had encountered 4m seas, had been unable to sleep for 80 hrs and then when they finally found harbor they slept for 13 hours straight. It made me feel sorta embarrassed that I was vaguely worried in 1.2m seas.

It was early to bed because tomorrow is another early start. Some had tea yet, but for whatever reason Heath and I just crashed. Must have been the late fridge fixing the night before.