It’s a Small World

We were very curious how exhausted and beaten down Israel would be by now, with the whole war situation, but were pleasantly surprised! After spending a year reading the media, it starts to mess with the head a little. The airport was bustling and we had to wait a long time in Passport Control. No trial, as my plane friend and her husband were with us and he’s a Sailor. He regaled us with stories and we discussed all the things sailors discuss.

Petah Tikva (Lena’s town) has always been a safe area, but I noticed the apartment’s bomb shelter at Lena’s was still kept unlocked and tidy. Otherwise, the traffic was as snarly as ever and we have spent quality time sitting in the car in bumper to bumper traffic, chuckling at the antics of our fellow sufferers. Horns blast and vehicles squish through impossibly small spaces.

Wednesday morning was the Bibas Family Funeral. If you keep up with the situation at all, you’ll know about the Bibas family that was taken hostage, mom, dad and two little boys. Mom and the boys died and their bodies were recently released by Hamas. Apparently there was a large funeral procession that started near Lena’s and went all the way down South to Gaza, so we just avoided that area.

We spent Wednesday in the Old City, showing Andrew some things he hadn’t seen, eating at our favorite shops, and saying no to vendors. Things were much livelier than last year, though Andrew thought it was quite empty of people. You don’t have to do any battling at all as you walk, but we certainly weren’t the only tourists.

But some things were worse. Israeli police had taken over Temple Mount almost 100%. It used to be mostly guarded by friendly Jordanians, Palestinians and just a few Israeli troops. Totally different now. Jews are allowed to go up by the droves, and you aren’t allowed to use any Arabic greetings at security. I learned the hard way with a small chewing out. Yes, I got hopping mad.

Walking down Jaffa Street, Heath overheard an American man tell his little boy, “you must not buy from any of these shops because they are all run by murderers.”

Our favorite coffee/sahlab shop man was cheerful again and doing abit of business. That was great to see! Unfortunately his beautiful cat had developed a skin problem, so he had to lock him up in the back so customers couldn’t see him. Also the cat always ran away when it was medicine time, so that was a problem.

We couldn’t miss eating at our favorite restaurant in Abu Dis so that was our supper destination on Thursday. We hope to stay in West Bank when we return in June, so we wanted to get a measure of how it felt. The traffic was mad, absolutely mad going in, which was a hugely positive sign. Hectic, noisy, smelly Abu Dis, our home away from home away from home. I think that’s what you say if several places feel like home. People seemed a lot less tense to me, but maybe that’s cause I was less tense. Nobody asked where we were from or why we were there. They just happily dished up large plates of heaven and we tore into it.

New stores have sprung up, and things looked like they were flourishing. I hope they really are and it’s not just an illusion.

This morning Heath and Andrew went to a famous Hummus shop for breakfast while I lallygagged at the hostel we spent night at. They ate with an Arab guy from Ramallah whom we met yesterday in Old City. They said he seemed resigned and sad.

Aside from all that war stuff, we have been hiking, or trying to hike. Some trails are randomly closed, but because it’s hikers heaven here, there’s always another one to check. The weather was absolutely perfect, and we spent hours trotting through oasis’ and canyons. Some were fierce crowded with yelling kids, which is always a little discouraging.

Wednesday for supper we went and got Yulia, one of our friends, and ate at Lena’s together. We had a great evening, with lots of good food, and the biggest olives I’ve ever seen. Lena is a real cheese connoisseur, so you can imagine how I enjoy that! Always a new one to pull out of the fridge and sample. Totally exciting! We spent some time singing, a long time chatting and finally had to take Yulia home. It all got extremely late and by the time we went to bed I was nearly loony with exhaustion, and definitely not good company.

Today we’re planning to find some more trails and then we’re invited to Lena’s daughter in law’s family home for the Shabbat supper tonight. That is so exciting! I’ve always wanted to see and partake of that.