It’s a Small World

Robbie had raved about Stuart Island, so that was our first destination. The winds were practically non existent, so we had to run the motor. Just as we entered the Prevost Harbor at Stuart, the VHF lit up with, “mumble, mumble, orcas where the cows hang out, gssssht, mumble, battleship”. Our ears perked straight up and without further ado we swung the boat in a circle and headed back out. Charts were consulted to see what on earth could be the cow area or battleship, and we all tapped into our inner detective. We knew it had to be close-ish, as VHF is not long range.

Clearly we need more practice, cause the orcas were nowhere to be seen. After some futile zigzagging, we gave up and headed back to the harbor. This time nobody bothered to try starting the dinghy motor, and we paddled in to a dock and tied up, leaping out to see what we could see.

There are two communities on the island, a one room school, a decrepit looking airstrip and a few vehicles. There’s a small wooden post office at the end of the dock with a series of rubbermaid totes and assorted bins all marked with someones name. The whole place looks amazing. The main road runs straight across the island to the lighthouse, so we ambled along it, admiring the flowers and the trees with enormous leaves and wondering why on earth an ancient VW Beetle was shoved down a cliff and abandoned. At the crossroads (yes, only one) there was a wooden chest filled with souvenirs, a stand with an orange cooler on it with drinking water, and a small box to deposit your money. We chest shopped, but didn’t buy.

Time was beginning to get away on us, so we hastened to the Light, hoping to at least glimpse it before heading back. It’s beautiful, and I can totally imagine spending a season there someday. We stood on the porch, gazing out over the water, and what should we see but ORCAS! Waaaaay in the distance, but they had the distinctive fin, and the very distinctive crowd of boats around around them. They were quite near where we’d been hunting, but such is life. We were thrilled for the glimpse, and watched for a few minutes before rushing back over the hill to reunite with Escape.

Gabes had to catch the ferry at Friday Harbor and head home to harvest, so we had a bit of a deadline. Heath and I wanted to share the joy with more people, so we had told Rob and Avril, whom we met for the first time on Sunday, that if they were at Friday Harbor when we arrived we’d love to have them join us.

The Harbor is a happening place, with sea planes coming and going, ferries making their passages and smaller yachts and fishing boats cruising around. There’s endless things to look at, as well as luxurious feeling showers. It felt like high time to shower! Robs smiling faces and loaded backpacks met us at the marina, and we were stoked to welcome them onboard. For sure when they mentioned that they had no clothes and only food in their heavy packs! Gotta love these people! They settled in while we had our aforementioned showers and bade Gabes farewell for now.

We headed out shortly before supper, and thankfully there was enough wind to use the sails. Avril’s excitement was palpable and easily catching. We sailed past Spieden Island, marveling at the strong currents, the barren island, and the Mouflon sheep and Sika deer that were grazing on it. Spieden is a private island with no public access, and signs that warn trespassers that they are being surveilled. Bald eagles flew overhead and ravens yelled. We tried to spy on the enormous house with our binoculars, but didn’t see anything too shady.

I have always thought of myself as a fairly observant person, but next to Rob’s, I miss alot of what’s going on around me! Long before our dim eyes could pick things out, they saw flowers, porpoises, mother seals and father seals, (Im just happy if I know its a seal, not a dog) blasted greebs, and 101 other fascinating sights.

Our night destination was Reid Harbor. Its also at Stuart Island, just across a spit of land from Prevost. We caught a mooring ball, tied off, and headed to shore. Rob and Avril cheerfully bickered as they rowed us in, and we were happy to note that we aren’t the only couple who can’t seem to row in sync. The sign at the dock said “Teacherage Museum that way”, and since that seemed like a very strange museum indeed, we headed off. The trail was steep, unmarked, and seemed way longer that the promised mile or so. We forever thought we saw glimpses of a teacherage thru the foliage, only to be disappointed. Eventually the elusive teacherage hove into sight, and with the aid of a couple flashlights we could sorta see the place. There was a library full of musty books as well, a basketball court and other sundries that were captivating. Naturally I didn’t absorb all that much info, but Avril picked up dozens of interesting tidbits that she regaled us with as we headed back.

Supper was a delightful charcuterie including, but not limited to, artisan bread, cheeses, meats, nuts and dried fruit from Rob’s backpacks, including tea brewed in a charming little pot. There was also a chickpea salad to knock your socks off. How spoiled I’ve been this week, surrounded by talented cooks who put real love and delight in their food! It’s a glaring eye opener into just how much I Do. Not. Like. To. Cook. But I surely do like to eat!